Do you want your dog to be still in one place for a moment in certain situations? Would you like her to greet people more calmly? Teaching the "sit" cue is a great place to begin, but it must not be overused.
“Sit” is a popular and familiar life skill that people like to teach their puppies and dogs before anything else, but while sitting on cue has some benefits, including keeping dogs in one position for a few moments, this skill should be used sparingly and only in situations where dogs are comfortable. Why? Because the more we understand dog behavior, the more we see that dogs can be uncomfortable when asked to sit in environments that are overwhelming for them or when they're too excited and find it difficult to control themselves. When people ask their dogs to sit in these kinds of situations, the dog tends not to respond and then the person usually ends up saying 'sit' many times and/or getting frustrated.
Think about how it might feel like being told to sit all the time. You approach the side of a road to cross it and are asked to 'sit.' You want to greet grandma and are told to 'sit' first. You have to sit before you can eat your food. A stranger has asked if they can say hello, and you're told to sit as they greet you. You have to sit before you're allowed on the sofa, while the lead is being attached, when you want to sniff something, while you're on a walk, when a dog comes to greet you etc. This might not seem a lot to you, but think about the action of sitting from your dog's point of view. It can sometimes be a very uncomfortable behavior to do.
Does this mean I should not teach my dog to sit?
The answer to that question is no, but be sensitive about where and when you ask your dog to sit and use this skill wisely.
Before you ask your dog to sit anywhere, think of the surface you're asking her to sit on. Is the pavement wet, cold, or too hot? Is the wooden floor too slippery? Is the grass she's sitting on poking her in the backside?
Now think about where you're asking her to sit. Is it in your house, your yard or garden, out on a walk, at a cafe, in the dog park, on a busy street?
Think about when you're asking her. When a guest has come into your home, when she's surrounded by a lot of people, when there are dogs playing around her?
This might be the first time you have ever thought differently about this command/cue/skill. The sit behavior is universally used and is usually the first thing a puppy or dog is taught, but at Positively, we focus on dogs' experience of a particular behavior first and not what we might think the benefit for our dogs might be.
So what can we replace the sit with? Well, there are other useful behaviors and skills you can teach your dog that don't require her to put her body in a vulnerable position by placing her bottom on the ground, but still asks for a momentary stillness, a check in, or a time to focus. Skills like 'wait' and 'stand' are good examples.
Note that some breeds, such as greyhounds or very large dogs, are not built to sit comfortably, so pay attention to your dog's breed, age and size. Senior dogs or dogs that have physical issues should not be asked to sit a lot, if at all.
Teaching the “Sit” cue
You can teach your dog to sit by following these easy, force-free steps. As with any new skill, teach this in short increments so that your dog is successful and training remains fun.
Materials needed
- Small bite-sized yummy treats that your dog loves
- A quiet area that your dog is familiar with, and ideally no distractions
- Non-slip surface, such as a rug or carpet
- A clicker, if you feel comfortable using one
Training technique: luring
This technique is a good place to start if your dog does not naturally sit a lot on her own.
- Hold a treat at your dog’s nose level and then move the treat up slightly so your hand just brushes the top of her nose. Hold your hand and treat in that position.
- As soon as your dog puts her rear end on the ground, mark her success with a verbal “yes,” or click your clicker if you are using one, then toss a treat away from her. This “resets” her body position, and gives you another opportunity to repeat Step #1.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 several times.
You will want your dog to sit when you don’t have a treat in your hand, so it is important to eventually use the lure less and less.
- This time, without food in your hand, use the same hand motion to lure your dog into a “sit,” as before.
- Your dog will likely sit again. When she does, say “yes” or click, grab a treat from your treat bag, and toss it away.
Repeat Steps 4 and 5 several times, until your dog quickly sits when you only use a hand motion. You are now using a hand signal as a “visual cue.”
Training technique: capturing
This technique is a good place to start if your dog naturally sits a lot on her own.
- If you and your dog are hanging out in the same room, wait until she sits on her own, click your clicker if you are using one (or mark it with a verbal “yes!”), then toss a treat away from her.
- Repeat the previous step several more times, always waiting until your dog’s rear end is on the ground before clicking or saying “yes” and tossing the treat.
- When your dog has caught onto the game, say “sit” right before she sits. Then continue with steps 1 and 2. You are now using a “verbal cue.”
Next steps
Practice ignoring distractions
- After your dog is comfortable with “sit” in a quiet place, then you can try teaching this skill in the living room, then in the kitchen, then in other parts of the house, and eventually outside with more distractions.
- Although your dog may know “sit” really well in a quiet room, you may need to practice earlier steps in new environments. With each new location, your dog is almost learning “sit” all over again, so be patient. Compare this to learning how to drive in a parking lot with no other cars around. It’s different from driving on a city street or on the expressway!
Building duration and distance
- After your dog is comfortable with “sit” in different environments, then you can ask your dog to sit longer – for 2 seconds, then 5 seconds. You can do this by clicking after 2 seconds has passed, then give your dog a treat. Practice this duration. Then click after 3 seconds has passed, and give your dog a small treat. With enough practice, your dog will have learned that she sits until she hears the click, but don't make her sit for too long.
- After your dog is comfortable with “sit” in different environments and for longer durations, you can ask your dog to sit while you’re 1 foot away, then 2 feet away, then 5 feet away. You can do this by asking her to “sit” and then stepping 1 foot away. If your dog stays in the sitting position, then click and give her a treat. Practice this distance. Then click after you ask her to “sit” and you’re 1.5 feet away. With enough practice, your dog will have learned that she sits until she hears the click, which could be 5 feet away from you, but makes sure she feels safe at this distance.
Tips
If you’ve tried the methods above, and your dog’s hind end still isn’t hitting the floor, know that that is common. If your dog is still struggling, consider these possibilities:
- Sitting and getting up again can be painful or strenuous for some dogs, especially very young or old dogs with arthritis, or even certain breeds.
- The surface might be too slippery, hot, or cold, making it difficult or uncomfortable for the dog. Try practicing on a non-slip surface that is a comfortable temperature for your dog.
- Your dog might be too tired or confused. Try practicing after she feels rested.
- She might not find the treats yummy enough. Try practicing with a different treat, such as string cheese, shredded cooked chicken, soft and chewy dog treats, or natural peanut butter.
- Sometimes dogs need movement breaks, just like we do. Try taking a short walk and letting her sniff the ground, or playing together. See if she’s ready to learn after that. If not, take a break and try again later.
- There might be too many distractions for your dog to focus. Try practicing in a less distracting environment or quieter area.
Be patient as you work through the training steps; remember you don’t have to teach the completed behavior in one training session.
What to avoid and why
Avoid using collars meant to cause punishment, such as choke collars, prong collars, and shock collars. Also avoid physically pushing or forcing your dog’s rear end to the ground, using the leash to pull or yank your dog into a sit position, or yelling at your dog for not understanding what you want. These all risk serious damage to the human-animal bond and are not best practices. They can confuse or frighten your dog, be physically painful, or be potential welfare issues.
There’s also no need to have your dog sit in order for her needs and wants to be met, such as attention, playtime, or affection.
